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Frescoed ceilings and artisanal corner crowns embellish the high ceilings of Ras al-Tin. The majesty of bygone eras hangs low with the chandeliers, threaded into the collar of elevator workers, stained into glass windows. Fig trees sweeten the garden and ripen the air. Crowning a peninsula off the coast of Alexandria, Ras al-Tin is one of Egypt’s oldest palaces, having been brought into being by none other than Muhammed Ali Pasha. To date, it is the only palace to witness…