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st katherine’s

 Ramadan, a Bedouin man from St Katherine, sits by the fire. He’s wearing a faded green army jacket and a mauve shemagh, huddling to keep warm as an autumn wind rustles the trees. We’re in his orchard – a beautiful cluster of almond, lemon and olive trees at the foot of Mount Sinai – where he lives with his family. It used to be a favourite stopping point for hikers in the mountains: they’d visit his orchard every week, drinking…