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Bedded in the sands of Al-Fayoum is a different understanding of Egyptian history; here, there are no temple tracks and incense, no inked Coptic and no athan. Rather, in a time-sculpted expanse, Wadi al-Hitan (Valley of the Whales) carries some of evolution's most baffling finds. A collection of whale fossils – with hind legs. Dating back 40 to 50 million years, Wadi al-Hitan is a paleontological miracle-find; although not the oldest site worldwide, it presents an interesting subset of questions…