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Tucked behind a Maspero construction site is a narrow alley, punctuated with small shops and idle fruit vendors. They sit on the sidewalk and cool themselves with feather fans used to air grilled corn. Out on the street are a few scattered men selling fresca (thin, honeyed wafers) and children’s toys, sweat gathering on their brow. Further down, where the Nile starts and the Ramses bus lot ends are two women selling soft batata (sweet potato). Mobile vendors are a…