Egypt

Today, when people mention Bulaq, it is often with a dismissive shrug to what is perceived as a crowded, lower-income neighborhood overshadowed by glossier parts of Cairo. But peel back the layers of concrete and memory, and you will find that Bulaq was once the beating heart of Egypt’s intellectual and cultural awakening. It is where the country’s first printing press was born, and where ideas, not just ink, first flowed into the bloodstream of modern Egypt. Under the direction…